Arto65FB kirjoitti:Onkohan kukaan koskaan katsonut, että mahtuisiko se tukivarsi menemään enemmänkin kuin tuon 1/8" taaksepäin.
Kyllä mahtuu!
Tämä siirto on syytä tehdä jos haluaa säilyttää ylätukivarren samassa pystylinjassa alkuperäisiin kiinityksiin nähden.
Tuo 1/8" siirto koskee vain 1" ylätukivarren tiputusta.
Shelby Upper Control Arm Drop
"The Shelby Drop"
In conjunction to the Granada disc brake, the upper control arms were lowered one inch. This modification is typically called the “Shelby drop”. It helps create negative camber while corning, something the stock Mustang suspension doesn’t do. Carrol Shelby did this modification to the early 65 GT 350s to improve their handling potential. This practice was stopped in 1966 because Ford was losing money on every GT 350 sold and wanted to cut costs.
Because the suspension was already partly disassembled to swap spindles, it was an ideal time to perform this modification. It does not need to be done however to install Granada spindles. This is purely a performance suspension enchancement that was done at the same time. It adds a few hours to the job as the coil springs, shocks and upper control arm must be removed so that new holes 1" lower in the shock tower may be drilled.
It is possible to drop the control arms more than one inch, however it requires a “negative wedge kit”. This kit allows the upper control arms to be lowered a full 1 3/4" from the stock location, the point which creates maximum negative camber. However, many point out that the difference between the 1" and 1 3/4" drop is virtually too difficult to see on the street and as you read on, not worth the money in our opinion.
Lowering the factory upper control arms more than one inch without the negative wedge kit will create a dangerous situation by putting the upper ball joint in a bind with full suspension travel. We didn’t feel the $240 for the kit was worth the money, so we stuck with the “free” one inch drop. With only labor and no parts to purchase the Shelby Drop makes a substancial improvment over the stock suspension that street drivers and even Autocross users like ourselves can appreciate. For the $240 needed to purchase the Negative Wedge Kit, it in reality comes with about $10 in aluminum stock, $2 for nuts and bolts and $40 for new ball joints. That money would be much better spent on new aftermarket upper control arms like Global West or even better; roller spring perches. The factory spring perches are known for becoming extremely stiff with just a little mileage and this creates a less responsive suspension. Roller Spring Perches help dramatically reduce this friction and allow the suspension to react much more quickly and smoothly.
Using the template as a guideline, the new shock tower holes need to be drilled 1” lower and 1/8” back on 65-66 Mustangs. On 67 and up, the control arms holes are drilled 1” straight down. To help ensure accurate drilling I made a template out of aluminum stock. You will need a 17/32” drill bit to make your final holes. I do recommend using smaller drill bits to start off. Need a copy of the template? Click here to print out a copy.
Be sure to double check the measurements before drilling!!!
Although the upper control arms are lowered one inch, your Mustang's ride height will not sit one inch lower in the front. I noticed at most, a ¼” drop from the modification after the suspension settled. This also seems to be the concensous of other people who have done the swap on the internet although some users have noticed a 1/2" drop. A set of aftermarket coil springs are ideal if further lowering of the car is desired. A set of 620 coil springs with 1" lower ride height were used to obtain our desired stance.
Once the holes have been drilled and the suspension has been reassembled the car will need to be realigned again. Starting off with half the original shims that were in place (on the 65-66 cars) should get you close enough to drive the car for an alignment. One word of caution, many shops today do not like to work on older cars, especially ones that have been modified. It took several attempts to find a shop that was willing to align our car. Upgrading to a set of Adjustable Strut Rods can help ease the alignment blues however by allowing most of the camber and caster settings to be set with the strut rods just like the 67+ Mustangs. Another nice feature of the adjustable strut rods is the elimination of binding problems associated with the stock strut rod bushings, while allowing free movement throughout the suspensions range of motion creating a more responsive suspension.
The original Ford alignment specs are for bias ply tires. Don't use them! Below are some recommended alignment specs with the Shelby Drop:
STREET
Caster: +1.5° to +2.5°
Camber: 0 to -.5°
Toe: 1/8"
STREET/TRACK
Caster: +2.5° to +3.5°
Camber: -.5° to -1.5°
Toe: 1/8"
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Down ... anada.html
Sama kuin mossella, kun ylätukivarta pudottaa 2" niin jousitornin tila loppuu kesken. Joko jätät rasvanipat pois tai teet lekalla lisää tilaa. Jällkimmäinen vaihtoehto on miehekkäämpi.
Toi netti on täynnä noita sapluunoita eikö kukaan löydä niitä.
Mitä vielä Shelby muutoksesta?
